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Spring/Summer 2004
How
'creative development' is shaping the Valley's future
by
Katharine Bill
With its spectacular scenery and caring community, the
Methow Valley is often thought of as an undiscovered Shangri-la
hidden in the North Cascades. But with recent articles about
the Valley in Runner’s World, Outside Magazine, the
New York Times and the Seattle Times, among many others, the
secret is out. As people discover the beauty of the Methow
Valley, and rush to own some of the pristine country, a window
of opportunity exists to shape the future of the Valley.
Will the natural beauty and rural character of the Valley
persist? That is the question many dedicated volunteers, non-profit
groups and government agencies have been working to answer
for over two decades. Through these formative years for the
Methow Valley, increasing numbers of people have found creative
ways to approach development and growth.
The term ‘creative development’ comes from the
Lincoln Institute of Land Policy, which published Dealing
with Change in the Connecticut River Valley, in 1989. This
180-page report describes innovative ways to integrate development
and resource protection through rural landscape planning.
The report includes three panels (see below) illustrating
conventional versus creative ways to plan for people, open
spaces, trails and wildlife corridors. According to John Hayes,
the Methow Valley would not look the way it does today without
the Lincoln Land Institute panels. Hayes came to the Methow
Valley in the early 1980s after having lived in Germany and
Colorado, where he saw the potential for communities based
around trails, natural beauty, agriculture, clustered development
and what he calls a “sense of neighborliness.”
|
|
|
Undeveloped
Land |
Typical
Unplanned Development |
Land-Sensitive
"Creative Devlopment" |
| These
panels illustrate conventional versus creative ways to
plan for people, open spaces, trails and wildlife corridors.
The drawings are from a report by the Lincoln Institute
of Land Policy, which describes innovative ways to intergrate
devlopment and resource protection through rural landscape
planning. |
Hayes’
vision pushed him to invest years of volunteer time into making
creative development a reality in the Methow Valley. “We
live in a unique place,” he says, “and we all
have different perspectives on why the Valley is important.
There’s a better chance of holding onto this landscape
if we can involve all kinds of people and come up with incentives
instead of regulations.” And that’s what Hayes
and numerous others have done.
Incentives
for trails include federal income tax deductions for donating
trail easements and increased property values around areas
of open space. Deeded trail easements also help landowners,
non-profit organizations and government agencies coordinate
in a tangible and effective way.
The
vision for clustered development also allowed seven planned
developments to happen between Winthrop and Mazama before
the Department of Ecology limited group domestic permits in
1991, and while the DOE opened group permits for 120 days
in 1994. By grouping houses together, creative planners minimized
the roads and impacts associated with development, protected
open space and defined the terms for public trail access.
Trails
lead the way
The
Methow Community Trail is the common link between many creative
developments in the Methow. Today the trail spans 22 miles
between Winthrop and Mazama, and private landowners and public
agencies have donated all trail access deeds. Volunteers wrote
and negotiated all the plans and agreements, and grants from
the State paid for the Tawlks-Foster suspension bridge and
surfacing the trail with gravel.
Hayes
was one mastermind behind the system, but he says, “there’s
no way one person was the author of any of it. There was a
convergence of thought on planning and design that gave an
alternative to the short-platting happening all over the Valley.”
Hayes believes that trails lead to landscape planning from
the ground up, by fostering a sense of care and stewardship
from those who know their own land best.
While surveying for the Community Trail in 1997, Tracy Lloyd,
a state fish and wildlife biologist, noted a stretch of particularly
productive salmon spawning habitat along the Methow River.
Lloyd suggested this area as a potential conservation easement
property, and the Methow Institute Foundation quickly made
the conservation easement a reality. This easement was the
first conservation easement in the Methow Valley donated to
a non-governmental agency, and soon after drafting the easement
the MIF transferred it to the Methow Conservancy.
Conservation
easements take the next step
This donated conservation easement helped launch
what is now one of the most successful conservation easement
programs in the State. The Methow Conservancy is an independent
land-trust organization, run by a local board of directors
and five part-time staff. The Methow Conservancy is a member
of the Land Trust Alliance, an umbrella group for over 1,200
land trusts nationwide.
The
mission of the Methow Conservancy is to protect and steward
the Methow Valley’s vital natural resources by offering
positive, voluntary conservation options. The Conservancy
works with interested landowners to identify and protect important
areas for people and wildlife, and today the Methow Conservancy
holds 39 conservation easements on over 3,700 acres in the
Methow Valley.
A
conservation easement is a voluntary legal agreement between
a landowner and a non-profit or government agency that protects
conservation values (wildlife habitat, open space, farmland,
etc.) by permanently restricting certain activities (development,
subdivision, mining, clear-cutting, etc.). Conservation easements
are filed with the property deed and remain with the property
if it is sold or inherited.
A
donated easement may qualify the landowner for federal income
tax deductions, and in some areas the Methow Conservancy has
received grant funding to purchase conservation easements.
In these cases, a certified appraiser determines the easement
value based on the rights that are restricted. Each easement
is unique and tailored to the property and the landowner’s
interests.
Many
people choose easements as a way to ensure long-term protection
of land that they love. As easement landowner Caryl Campbell
says, “We couldn’t bear the thought of that beautiful
property being carved up with houses and roads everywhere.”
Towards
sensible growth
Most
people agree that the Valley’s economy depends on our
magical combination of scenery, community and recreational
opportunities. Through creative development tools like conservation
easements and clustered developments, the Methow Valley is
achieving what has evaded so many other places in the rural
West – a balance between growth and resource protection.
So
the next time you’re on the Methow Community Trail,
consider the neighborliness that has allowed this winding
path. The trail is a reminder of the tangible steps that MVSTA,
government agencies, businesses, the Methow Conservancy and
hundreds of community members are taking towards sound local
planning. The results sing out in the springtime and change
colors in the fall, for all in the Valley to enjoy.
Back to the Top
Hiking the five
villages of Italy's Cinque Terre
By
Nicholas Ahlfs
What
could be more inviting than a hiking trail called Via Delle
Amore,
“The Path of Love?” That’s what my wife
Patti and I thought in June of 1990 when we set out on a day
hike from Manarola to Riomaggiore. Little did we realize that
the trail in Italy’s Cinque Terre should have been called
“The Rocky Road of Love.”
The Cinque Terre, which literally means “the five lands,”
is a chain of five villages cascading from a vertical landscape
along the coast of the Ligurian Sea. The largest and most
“townlike” is Monterosso al Mare, which sports
the nicest and most accessible swimming beaches. Then as you
head south comes Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore.
For most of their histories, these remote villages were joined
only by narrow, dirt trails. Then, one hundred years ago,
a rail line was built, connecting them to the outside world.
Until the early 1980s, this region was one of those “secret”
out-of-the-way places visited mostly by northern Europeans.
But then a young American travel writer named Rick Steves
highlighted the region in his Europe Through the Back Door
series. The sunny and picturesque Cinque Terre is now packed,
especially during June, July, and August with travelers seeking
to find the magic Steves first described 25 years ago.
Last summer found us on our fourth visit to Cinque Terre,
and we have witnessed firsthand the evolving changes: higher
prices for food and lodging, partly due to the introduction
of the new euro currency; narrow streets now choked with travelers
from around the globe; less attentive service; and hard-to-get
rooms. For example, Vernazza, Rick Steves’ favorite,
is still a beautiful village, but one that since we were first
there in 1990, has lost some of its “charm” and
innocence.
However, the charm was clearly evident in June 1990. We had
arrived in Vernazza by local train, with a dog-eared Rick
Steves travel guide tucked in our travel packs. Exiting the
train station, we made our way up the hill to Pensione Sorriso,
one of the few accommodation choices then. Our room was clean
and tidy; and we actually found the communal bathroom very
efficient — a miniature space with a side-by-side toilet
and shower (sans shower curtain.) But more, from the shower,
the view over the rooftops of Vernazza and
the sea in the distance was spectacular. Of course, I should
mention that Pensione Sorriso was only a few hundred feet
from the railroad tracks. During the night we were frequently
reminded how loud trains can be, and how they can make a room
shake and shudder. It was like having free vibrating beds
in your room on the hour!
Despite the lack of “back home” conveniences,
being in Vernazza was worth it. You could not help but be
awed by the peaceful beauty of the village with its tiny harbor
and piazza which is bordered by an ancient church; a haphazard
collection of multihued buildings; clotheslines strung between
balconies, adorned with colorful laundry; and the comings
and goings of small fishing boats. And there were tiny markets
packed with sweet-smelling peaches and tomatoes, and a variety
of Italian cheeses of many fragrances; small trattorias scattered
around the piazza serving Ligurian pesto and plates heaped
with freshly caught seafood; a castle tower dominating the
village; and, overriding it all, the slow pace of life.
We
had, of course, carefully read Steves’ descriptions
about the hiking trails which knit the villages together,
and we were especially intrigued with the romantic-sounding
Via Delle Amore. So clad in a T-shirt, shorts, and tennies
— I wore tennis shoes so that the natives could tell
me apart from the German tourists (that’s not true,
of course, but the Germans did dress more formally, and only
Americans seemed to wear tennis shoes) — we began our
trek. Steves described it as “easy” but noted
that a few sections of the trail were rough. He failed to
mention the crudely constructed fenced barricade blocking
the path to Riomaggiore. Since this was near the end of the
trail, we ignored the warning sign that proclaimed in Italian
that the trail was closed and too dangerous to use. We followed
the lead of a young German couple ahead of us who had climbed
up and around the board and barbed-wire barrier. With the
other couple giving us a much appreciated hand, we struggled
up and over, wishing that we had worn sturdier hiking shoes.
Continuing on with the German couple, we found little danger,
other than lots of debris and rocks that had dribbled down
from the hills above. 
However,
when we arrived at the tunnel leading to Riomaggiore, we found
it was in shambles, littered with rubble and covered with
graffiti. Since I have a bad habit of complaining about anything
in disrepair, I groused about the idiosyncratic Italian bureaucracy
that would allow this beautiful scenic trail to deteriorate
so badly. Of course, I grumbled about lots of other Italian
oddities like the toilets that were essentially holes in the
floor with a fancy porcelain covering with footprints to show
you where to squat. Then there were the pay phones that seldom
worked. The post office that only sold stamps at certain times
of the day. The banks that cashed traveler’s checks
only on particular days of the week. I would be remiss in
not mentioning that Patti calls me “anal retentive”
for always focusing on what needs to be fixed. I prefer to
think of myself as one who pays attention to details.
But
that was then. Now the phones work, the toilets are mostly
the kind we’re used to, and ATM’s are ubiquitous.
And the Via Delle Amore section of the trail is not a precarious
adventure, it’s a 35-minute stroll where lovers can
walk arm in arm, if they choose, and enjoy the breath-taking
views along this stretch of the sea. The “trail”
is now nicely paved with fitted slabs of rock, beautifully
seamed together in typical Italian fashion. A modernistic
metal gate with a pair of hearts greets strollers, and if
things weren’t comfortable enough, there’s an
espresso bar a few minutes from the walkway’s beginning.
The derelict tunnel has been rebuilt to protect walkers from
falling rock. As you depart the tunnel heading north, two
lovers kissing, designed into a stylized simple chair, looks
out over the shimmering waters of the Ligurian Sea.
The
catalyst for the improvements was the creation of a new national
park which now encompasses the entire Cinque Terre region.
Riomaggiore, the headquarters for the park, has been spruced
up with newly paved roads and walkways. Large signs advertise
the “Parco Nazionale delle Cinque Terre,” and
national park buses shuttle people from place to place. WPA-type
murals adorn the new railway walls of Riomaggiore with heroic-looking
workmen, well-muscled and tan, working diligently at their
craft. All of this, I suspect, was done not only to protect
the environment of the region, but also to promote tourism.
And it does. 
Because
of the increased crowds in Monterosso and Vernazza, we chose
Corniglia as our base for hiking. It’s a picturesque
village on a bench high above the sea waters. Although Corniglia
hasn’t been as dramatically affected by tourism as the
other villages, changes are evident there, too.
However, no matter which of the villages you choose as your
home base, you are only minutes away from all five because
of frequent and cheap rail service. Of course, those who choose
to travel by car to the Cinque Terre can access the region
by a new highway. But this mode of transportation is really
less convenient because of a lack of parking and narrow village
streets. I prefer the train and “by foot” method.
In addition to the trail that follows the coastline, there
are other trails that go high above the villages. The coastal
path, which we chose to hike, is the most popular since it
goes directly from village to village. It is possible to hike
the entire trail in about six hours. However, I encourage
you to take more time, as we did, so you can leisurely explore
each of the villages. I also recommend that you hike from
south to north in the direction from Riomaggiore to Monterosso.
The sun is at your back, and you avoid the punishing climb
out of Monterosso.
On
this most recent visit, equipped with sturdy trail shoes,
we hiked the trails on three separate days in random order.
Our first morning out, we hiked from Corniglia to Vernazza.
The second day we took the train to Riomaggiore and then hiked
from there to Manarola, and on to Corniglia. On the final
day, an early morning train ride from Corniglia to Vernazza,
a quick cappuccino in the piazza, and it was time to complete
the coastal trail from Vernazza to Monterosso.
Each section of the trail varies somewhat as far as difficulty.
From Corniglia to Vernazza, the path leaves Corniglia and
climbs steeply through vineyards and olive trees until it
levels out after about 20 minutes. By then you realize that
the cautionary signs at the beginning of the path should be
heeded. The sign pictures a woman’s high heel shoe with
a diagonal red line through it. Now, I didn’t see women
in spikey high heels like the sign portrayed, but there were
many “hikers” who wore beach flip-flops, dressy
loafers, and, yes, even medium height high heels. Puzzling
to me, some also wore clothing meant more for dining out than
hiking. And it was hot — the summer of 2003 set heat
records throughout Europe. Most people, however, did dress
wisely. A good thing. I didn’t actually count the steps
that lead one up and down on the trail, but between Corniglia
and Vernazza and Monterosso there must be, conservatively
speaking about 23,000. OK, maybe not quite that many, but
I did find myself mumbling, “Good, I’ve reached
the top,” only to walk a few feet and start climbing
again.
Regardless of the steps, the trail between Corniglia and Vernazza
is stunningly magnificent, and would be my pick if you could
only hike one segment. The view back to Corniglia is magical:
crayon-colored box-like structures, dominated by the church
of San Pietro, all perched on an out-cropping of rocks. And
then looking ahead towards Vernazza, you see a meandering
coastline, terraced, lush and green, defined by the deep prussian-blue
waters of the sea, which is itself dotted with small boats
slicing the water, leaving white wakes behind them. As you
stop to rest under a grove of olive trees, you can’t
help but wonder about the people who have lived here since
pre-Roman times, living mainly off the produce they grow on
the terraced hillsides and the seafood harvested from their
small boats.
Approaching Vernazza, you leave the shelter of the trees and
follow the edge of the coast, although you are still hundreds
of feet above the sea. The last mile or so is mostly a steep
descent with the inevitable steps. But near the end, as you
wend your way through the tightly packed houses and apartments,
you can faintly hear the din of the village. And soon you
come out to Vernazza’s harbor piazza. It is magical.
It is as though a genie placed you in the middle of a new
world, enveloped by crowds of people — talking, gawking,
eating lunch, drinking wine, eating gelato. And after a hot
hike, it’s a pleasant relief to walk out onto the jetty,
take off your shoes, and dip your feet into the cool water.
Then, of course, you need to deal with your parched throat
— after all, you’ve trekked for two hours on a
hot, dusty trail. So there’s nothing better than a fine
cool bottle of Moretti beer, Italy’s finest, at least
in my humble opinion.
Our second day on the trail began after a leisurely breakfast
in Corniglia’s small, but lively, piazza. Rather than
taking the meandering road down to the train station, we decided
to take a shortcut down the hill. Descending the 377 steps
to the station, we headed south for Riomaggiore on the train.
After an hour of exploring the various shops, we purchased
two litres of aqua minerale frizzante and headed for Manarola
on the Via Delle Amore. The trail begins here with a series
of steps that take you up and away from the village, but then
surprisingly level out and widen, an invitation to linger
and savor the magnificent panorama. Manarola is blessed with
a huge seawall that shelters a miniscule harbor with huge
rocks and deep water that attract young divers. Continuing
our journey north, we ventured on to Corniglia and the prospect
of a well-deserved siesta. Although this section of the path
is mostly level, the afternoon sun mercilessly baked the trail
— no trees to shelter weary hikers.
On
the third day, I took the final leg of the journey from Vernazza
to Monterosso alone, because my partner, having traveled that
way before, chose to stay behind in Corniglia. This trail
in many ways is the most deceptive. As you leave Vernazza,
you weave your way between stone buildings and onto a fairly
well-maintained path. This path ascends quickly through well-manicured
terraced vineyards, until you arrive at a promontory overlooking
Vernazza from the north. This is the scene that all the guidebooks
and travel articles use. It’s a scene of an Italy we’d
all like to retire to: relaxing on our villa balcony sipping
a beverage of choice, reading a fine book. With no phone,
no fax, no computer, no troubles, you just sit and enjoy what
the Italians call the “Il dolce far niente,” or
the sweetness of doing nothing.
That fantasy vanishes quickly as the climbing begins again.
Step after step. It was exhausting, for I had chosen one of
the hottest days of our trip to Italy to hike the last leg
of the coastal trail. Soon my T-shirt was sopping wet and
I was sweating like the proverbial pig, climbing what seemed
like another thousand rock and stone “steps” on
the trail to Monterosso. After wondering whether or not I
should throw myself into the cool waters three hundred feet
below, or just rest and drink some water, I sat down to dry
off. An old man — one of the farmers who sells goods
to travelers trekking from village to village — came
down the trail. After we exchanged the obligatory “buon
giorno’s,” he pointed to the lemons heaped in
his basket, which he wanted me to purchase. Even though they
looked beautiful — all large, deep yellow, and unblemished
— I resisted. The thought of sticking a half dozen lemons
in my shorts had no appeal, so I smiled and shook my head
saying, “No, grazie.” I then motioned a request
to take his photo with the lemons. In Italian and gestures,
he said only if I bought lemons. Like a fool, I declined,
passing up this once-in-a-lifetime photo opportunity. Perhaps
the sun had baked my brain.
The next leg of the trail looks deceivingly easy, descending
into what you think must be the end of the trail. Wrong. It
then levels out and you continue until you catch glimpses
of the village of Monterosso. Now Monterosso is the real tourist
town of Cinque Terre. This is where you’ll find a few
luxury hotels mixed with pensiones, great beaches, markets,
lots of shops, and, sure enough, it’s packed with people.
Because
Monterosso is the largest village with the most visitors,
it is not unusual to see herds of people ascending the trail
out of Monterosso, unaware of the terrain that lays before
them. I did meet what I would have to call the most foolish
of day hikers headed to Vernazza in the heat of the day. I
described the last leg of the journey as deceptive. Here’s
why: After you are convinced that the trail will simply go
on its merry way and come out on some beautiful beach front,
you face the reality. The level part of the trail is poorly
maintained. There are washed out parts, but not to worry.
If you fell off the path, it would be into brambles, not to
oblivion. Then you start down. These steps — and no
fooling this time, there are several hundred — are steep
and narrow. I did move aside for panting parties of trail
walkers coming from Monterosso on their way to Vernazza, and
I worked hard to resist the urge to shout, “Go back,
you fools!”
In spite of the growing popularity of the region, the trails
linking the five villages of the Cinque Terre have to be the
most memorable in my experience, and I would encourage anyone
to go. The scenery, the charm of the Italians, the fine food
and the local wine are all worth whatever sweat you may have
to shed to get to this idyllic region. If you go, try for
April or May, when you’ll find fewer throngs of tourists.
And, unless you really want to stay in a beachfront hotel,
I would recommend the more modest accommodations of Corniglia.
Some are listed on the informative Cinque Terre’s website:
www.5terre.it. Other websites worth visiting are www.cinqueterreonline.com
& www.parconazionale5terre.it.
I can enthusiastically recommend a few “don’t
miss” establishments in Corniglia. For your early morning
wake- up drink, visit Bar Matteo in the heart of the village.
Sit in the morning sun surrounded by giant trees, picturesque
buildings, the sounds of the shopkeepers setting up for the
day, and the calling of the gulls. Enjoy a cappuccino with
a pastry while you watch the village come alive. For your
late afternoon repast, visit Wine Bar Terra Rossa, and have
a glass of the region’s fine white wine. You’ll
also be given tarallini, a cracker treat from southern Italy’s
Puglia.
For some of the best and most affordable food you’ll
eat anywhere in Italy, try “A Cantina de Mananan,”
which is just a few doors down from Bar Matteo. Reservations
are a must. Not only is it a small establishment– maybe
eight tables in all– this osteria is highly recommended
by the locals. Be prepared to stay late. Service starts at
8:00 PM, and the table is yours for the evening. The menu,
hand-written on giant chalk boards, is extensive, especially
in the regional seafood specialties. Bring your Italian menu
dictionary to help translate all the choices. If you love
Italian food at its best, a night at this osteria is one you’ll
not soon forget.
Nor
will you forget the Via Delle Amore or the other trails in
this magical paradise. And, if anyone tells you that the trail
of love is a rocky one, you can honestly tell them that they
are wrong. It’s now a smooth, beautifully paved pathway,
with a chair with two lovers overlooking a romantic sea.
Back to
the Top
Bringing
women into the vertical world
by
Ann McCreary
Anne
Keller grew up with a view of snowcapped Mount Rainier through
the bedroom window of her home in Puyallup, and she’s
kept mountains in sight ever since. As a child, she always
felt drawn to the mountains. She remembers dreaming of someday
visiting the Alps. She took her first job at The Paradise
Inn on Mount Rainier. While working there, she was invited
to join in a trip up the mountain.
“I climbed Mount Rainier for the first time when I was
17, and it was a pivotal point in my life,” Keller says.
“It gave me tremendous confidence in many other aspects
of my life.”
In the 18 years since that first climb, Keller has taken every
possible opportunity to head to the high country. She worked
as a guide for six years, primarily for Rainier Mountaineering,
becoming a senior guide with 40 successful ascents of Mount
Rainier.
She
settled in the Methow Valley about seven years ago with her
husband, internationally known alpine climber Steve House.
They were attracted to the Valley by the superb mountaineering
opportunities in the surrounding North Cascades Mountains.
Two summers ago, Keller decided to share her passion for climbing
with other women, and founded her own mountaineering school
for women. Keller wanted to focus on women because her experience
as a guide made her believe that women would appreciate more
opportunities to explore the vertical world together.
“While
some guide services were toying with doing women’s trips,
no one was going after that as a goal. And when they did offer
women’s trips, there was nothing that changed about
them, other than having a female guide,” Keller says.
Female guides have been far outnumbered by men in the climbing
world. Among the 60 guides at Rainier Mountaineering when
Keller worked there, only five were women. And, she notes,
there is only one internationally certified woman guide in
the United States.
The male dominance in climbing may be shifting, Keller believes,
and through her women’s trips, she is working to encourage
women of all ages and abilities to venture into the mountains.
Keller’s programs are affiliated with North Cascades
Mountain Guides, headquartered in Mazama. During the first
two years, Keller operated under the name “The Alpine
Finishing School for Ladies.”
Her
mission is to provide her students with skills and the confidence
to use them. “My goal is to foster a feeling of competence,
and to make women feel like they can go out into the mountains,
they can problem solve and work things through, and have a
really good outing.” Her approach is “safety first,
fun second.”
The “fun” part comes naturally on the outings,
Keller says. “There are some really positive things
that happen on an all-women’s trip. The biggest thing
is camaraderie.”
The sense of camaraderie develops among participants as they
face new challenges together, Keller says. “It seems
women have slightly different ways of solving problems than
men, coming to consensus and making decisions. When we’re
making decisions in the back country, it seems like everyone
stops and talks about it, and makes sure everyone feels comfortable
before going on.”
Keller
offers trips for women from beginner to expert, in all types
of mountain terrain—snow, rock, ice and glaciers. Many
of her clients are beginners and intermediates who want to
learn mountaineering skills, but don’t feel confident
about going out with other people. Keller talks with her students
to learn about their objectives, their level of fitness, and
their needs. She makes sure they are outfitted with equipment
that is appropriate for the female physique.
Once in the mountains, Keller emphasizes teaching her students
how to recognize hazards, such as rockfalls and avalanche
potential.
“Knowing
what’s above you in the mountains is critical,”
Keller says. “It takes some experience to know how to
read the terrain. When we’re out, I share my decision-making
process with them. I want them to realize how and why I chose
one way, rather than another way.”
Keller, who has trained with the American Institute for Avalanche
Research and Education, offers basic avalanche courses and
more advanced rescue courses during the winter. In spring,
Keller leads backcountry ski excursions at Washington Pass,
which she says provides a perfect place for touring. The growing
popularity of alpine touring equipment, which allows a free
heel for the ascent and a locked heel for the descent, is
making the backcountry more accessible to intermediate and
advanced skiers, Keller says.
Working with North Cascades Heli Skiing, for which she guides
during the winter, Keller also offers women’s ski trips
into the backcountry by helicopter. Summer excursions include
rock climbing classes and multi-day mountaineering trips in
the Cascades. She’s particularly fond of ski mountaineering
on Mt. Shuksan, which offers skiing on glaciers to ascend
the peak and rock climbing at the summit. “It’s
a great mountain for training. It has beginner to advanced
terrain.”
For rock climbers, Keller often takes beginners to Fun Rock
in Mazama for a two-day course focusing on the basics, including
harness fitting, knots, terminology and communicating with
partners, belaying, lowering, rappelling, and movement skills.
Intermediate climbers learn how to accomplish a multi-pitch
climb on the Washington Pass spires.
Trips
usually include up to four students, although on more difficult
outings she may reduce the number to two students.
Keller
has also devised specialized trips, including a Mother’s
Day outing in which moms climb free with their daughters.
And, remembering how her first climb changed her life, Keller
says she plans to develop trips for teens. “It’s
a great way to foster confidence in young women.”
To
learn more about Anne's Alpine Finishing School for Ladies
visit their website: http://www.ncmountainguides.com/women/women.html
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For
energy and endurance don't cut out the carbs
By
Joy Blakeslee
Are
you gearing up for a day of hiking in the Cascades or perhaps
a long trail run or bike ride? For the endurance required
for sustained physical activities like these, don’t
forget to include carbohydrate-containing foods as part of
your balanced diet. Both the American College of Sports Medicine
and the American Dietetic Association recommend active individuals
eat 3-5 grams of carbohydrates (3 if you are not very active
and 5 if you are extremely active) per pound every day.
Complex
carbohydrate foods such as whole grains, fruits and vegetables
along with moderated amounts of more simple carbs are important
fuel sources for an active life. Eating these foods gives
us energy, increases endurance and performance, and keeps
us alert and focused so we can enjoy the scenery around us.
Carbohydrates are also the key to post exercise recovery,
allowing us to go out and enjoy ourselves the next day.
Although “low-carb” diets may be all the rage,
restricting carbohydrates can leave active people without
power, strength and endurance. This is because the body converts
the carbohydrates we eat into an energy source called glycogen.
Glycogen is stored in the muscles and liver where, between
meals and during exercise, it can be converted quickly into
energy. Liver glycogen maintains blood sugar levels, “feeding”
our brains, and muscle glycogen is used directly by muscle
cells as the energy needed for movement. Without dietary carbohydrates,
these functions will not occur at an optimal level.
The
average physically fit adult stores about 1,500 calories worth
of potential energy as muscle glycogen. Both increased fitness
levels and a carbohydrate-rich diet can maximize these energy
stores. Our glycogen storage capacity actually increases as
we become more fit, and this is a major reason endurance levels
increase with training. Studies have shown that athletes eating
carbohydrate-rich diets have significantly more endurance
then athletes on a diet that restricts carbohydrates. These
studies also showed people on “low-carb” diets
had a higher level of perceived exertion, meaning not only
could they not go as far or as long, but it hurt more. too!
Eating snacks containing carbohydrates, or “sports foods”
such as energy bars, gels and drinks during exercise increases
endurance and performance. Two to three hours of hard aerobic
exercise can deplete your glycogen stores. If you have ever
“bonked” or “hit the wall” you know
what this feels like. These “sports foods” contain
sugar and relatively simple carbohydrates that, when taken
with water, are quickly digested and absorbed and provide
our muscles with immediate energy. Eating between 30 to 60
grams of carbohydrates every hour during endurance exercise
can “spare” your glycogen stores, extending endurance.
Of
course, fat is also burned during aerobic exercise, and most
of us have plenty of this stored fuel source. The average
adult may carry over 100,000 calories worth of potential energy
in their fat cells! It would be great if we could burn fat
as our primary fuel, but unfortunately, this is not the case.
Increased fitness does allow us to burn more fat, but fat
alone cannot keep us going indefinitely. In fact, to burn
fat effectively a constant supply of carbohydrates is needed.
This is why we must stop, refuel, rest and recover before
we can keep going. This brings us to the subject of post exercise
recovery.
Eating
carbohydrate-containing foods is absolutely essential for
post exercise recovery. The “dead legged” feeling
that can occur after a day of heavy exercise is partially
due to glycogen depletion. During the first hour after exercise
there is a “window of opportunity” when carbohydrates
are very efficiently converted into glycogen. By eating at
least .6 grams of carbohydrates per pound of body weight right
after exercise, you can optimize muscle glycogen reloading.
Foods that contain carbohydrates and small amounts of protein
works well for this purpose. This refueling is not important
after short moderate exercise, but is essential after races
and endurance exercise, or if back-to-back days of hard activity
are planned.
So remember, for optimal performance and endurance eat a balanced
diet containing 55%- 65% of calories from carbohydrates. Focus
on eating “nutrient rich” complex carbohydrate
foods like whole grains, fruits and veggies. Many of these
foods are great sources of fiber, minerals and the vitamins
essential to convert food into energy. Moderate your intake
of highly refined carbohydrates, like white bread, processed
snacks, soda, and candy as these “nutrient poor”
foods tend to be filled with hidden trans-fats and are high
in “empty” calories. You will find that giving
your body the right fuel and maintaining a smart training
plan will help add to your enjoyment and your endurance.
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Walking
England's Cotswold Way
By
Laura Fine Morrison
When
a longtime friend decided to mark her 50th birthday last
summer with a 104-mile walk along the Cotswold Way in England,
I gladly accepted an invitation to join in the celebration.
For twelve days our group of four women, friends for more
than 20 years, explored beautiful country and enjoyed British
hospitality and history along the Cotswold Way.
In England a “way,” much like our local sports
trails, meanders over private and public lands, without
so much as a grumpy farmer or “no trespassing”
sign to offend. Free passage is a sometimes mythical and
always splendid thing.
Our
trip began with three days in London, where we caught a
show (“Chicago”), visited the National Portrait
Gallery, Buckingham Palace and Harrods Department Store
(a must).
I was charmed and amazed by the British civility, their
love of their Royals (alive and dead) and the fact that
they actually do greet the world with a lilting, “Cheerio!”
My cultural compass set; I was ready for on-trail adventure.
The Cotswold Way starts close to Shakespeare’s Stratford-on-Avon.
Traveling with tickets purchased over the Internet from
home, we arrived at the London station in a classic, black
English cab. We journeyed to Stratford by bus. Our bus driver,
Amelia, was fervent in her departure speech: “I love
my life and I love it bad! Our mission is to arrive safely,
not to worry, we WILL arrive.”
As
she careened around curves, with a notable lead foot, we
repeated her promise like a mantra. “We love our life
and we love it bad, not to worry, we WILL arrive.”
And so we did, but not without a few more well chosen words
of wisdom from our eloquent chauffeur. “Ladies and
gentlemen, I must insist that you double check, triple check,
quadruple check for all belongings, and do have yourselves
a nice day!”
Stratford,
famous in its own right, elevated the words, “cute”
and “picturesque” to new prominence in our travel
vocabulary, as we drove through its narrow streets to a
lunchtime reunion with an old friend. She and her two corgis
(what is it with the English and these little dogs?) graciously
escorted us to the official start of the Cotswold Way in
the even cuter and more picturesque village, Chipping Camden.
This would be the first of a series of village names that
would twist our tongues and embellish the Cotswold experience
with curious alliterations.
The region in England known as the Cotswolds is situated
northwest of London, not far from the Severn Estuary. It
is an area of gentle hills and valleys, ancient villages
made entirely of the local, yellow-hued limestone. Four
thousand years of history – almost more than we North
Americans can fathom – have left their mark on what
is often referred to as the “quintessential English
region.” 
The
Cotswold Way was designated a “local distance footpath”
in 1970, and by 1998 was deemed a National Trail. The British
are great walkers and their countryside is covered with
ways, public bridle trails and footpaths. Almost all of
these paths can be found on boundary maps and are well marked
with small round insignia that feature promising colored
arrows.
Well-crafted
turnstiles and roundabouts, sponsored by local merchants,
add another touch of that British civility that I noticed
early on in my visit and was coming to count on. What none
of us counted on, however, was losing our/the “WAY”
our very first afternoon out, and five meandering miles
from Chipping Camden to Broadway turned into a grueling,
bushwhacking, ten.
Let
me say right off, that this “walk through the countryside”
was clearly a hike in sheep’s clothing. No matter
that we missed the historic Broadway Tower, we staggered
into Broadway and our first night’s accommodation
gratefully and with a powerful thirst, mindful of each and
every pub we passed. After an adequate pub dinner and the
requisite pint (or two, in some cases), we fell gratefully
into bed, vowing to walk smart and keep our eyes pealed
for those scout badge-sized trail markers in the days ahead.
Broadway to Winchcombe, our second stop, was a respectable
distance. So, after negotiating the necessary luggage transfer
with our innkeeper (which we did at each stop), we sat down
with great appetite to our first, of many, full English
breakfasts. Imagine eggs, bangers (sausages, of sorts),
bacon, fried tomatoes, whole mushrooms, very dry, white
toast, an assortment of dry cereal and occasionally mush.
Tea is de rigueur and coffee, if you must, is instant and
delivered in little straw-like tubes. 
Thus
fortified each morning, we headed into our Cotswold days
down paths and through meadows that offered up sheep, too
numerable to count, over hills to places like Cheltenham,
Burton-on-the-Water, Painswick, King Stanley, and Wotton-under-Edge.
Villages we missed, but bear considering, are both Upper
and Lower Slaughter. (I’ll leave it to your imagination
what might have inspired such names.) Some days, we all
walked, some days there was fallout, sightseeing and recuperative
downtime taken by half the party. I should note that most
villages have a few circular trail systems surrounding them,
and it is quite popular to choose a favorite locale and
walk a bit, eat some, drink much and shop, as the day lengthens
into night.
No
trip is complete without points of historical interest to
photograph earnestly. The Cotswolds are dotted with archeological
sites referred to locally as fairy hills, barrows or tumps.
Belas Knap, in the Winchcombe area, dating from 2000 B.C.,
was on our route and praised as a great example. It is distinguished
by its length of 178 feet and false entrance formed by meticulous
and uniform dry stone walls. Its four internal chambers
yielded 38 bodies to early excavators and as many theories
as to its true purpose. Personally, my favorite was “Hetty
Pigler’s Tump,” which is distinguished by very
little other than its fanciful name. Perhaps I remember
it fondly because finding “Hetty” was followed
by a celebratory pint referred to as “Old Spot”
at the Uley Brewery. One hundred and four miles yields many
stories and memories worthy of a 50th birthday celebration.
If
a Cotswold walk calls your name, whatever the occasion,
there are only a few tips you’ll need prior to being
on your way. Web sites at www.cotswolds-calling.com and
www.cotswolds.info offer a plethora of useful information.
A bit of advice from a member of our group: “Watch
out for the sheep dip.” (She means the kind you step
in!) And I say, with total confidence after a fortnight
in Britain, “Cheerio, and have a lovely walk.”
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